Having purchased an SB1174 3 Pt Snow Blower with both the chute rotation and deflector cylinders I needed to come up with a way to control both cylinders. I have the 3rd SCV already installed which operates the chute rotation. I posted on a different thread and got a suggestion from Kenny D which was simple but extremely effective. So off I went adding a diverter valve, wiring and switch to my machine.
I purchased the valve and fittings from Kenny D who extremely knowledgeable, answered all my questions, and delivered the product which exceeded my expectations.
After looking over the wiring schematics for the 3520 and checking the right side console I found that the 2-way connector (X4) containing circuits 263A (Orange) & 010A (Black). A quick check with a voltmeter with the key in the run position found 12v present which meant that the fuse F11 (20A) was present too! So I ordered the JD Diverter switch (LVA11181), the Diverter Wiring harness (MIA10393) ouch not cheap! and the diverter relay (AM123716).
A piece of 1/2" scrap aluminum was drilled to allow mounting to the Blower. Some JD Green was applied to the aluminum and then the Diverter Valve was attached. All the fittings and hoses were now plumbed up. (Remember - don't use any sealant on the ORB fittings, just lube the o rings with a little hydraulic fluid).
Now the easy part - the electrical wiring install. The Diverter harness plugged into the X4 connector. The relay was mounted to the side of the control lever bracket (a hole was there so I used it) The Diverter switch was installed in a blank closest to the 3rd SCV lever (the switch illuminated in Red). The connector Y7 (which would have gone to the real JD diverter valve was cut off and the two circuits were routed through a hole drilled through the metal to exit the cab just above the right rear tire. The wiring was protected with flex nylon braid and sealed with RTV Sealer. (Did I mention I hate drilling holes in my machine! But I had to get the two circuits out of the cab) Once exiting the cab the circuits were placed in 3/8" convolute and tie strapped to existing tubes and structures to keep it secured & out of the way. Once near the I-Match the two circuits had a mating Deutsch connector soldered onto then to mate to the Deutsch from Kenny D's D-Valve.
Put everything back together - doubled checked hoses and wiring, pulled the tractor out of the garage fired it up and verified both chute rotation and deflection worked. Success - awaiting the next snow fall!
Nice little project, thanks to all that contributed to my initial post and to Kenny D for all his help!
Tony
I purchased the valve and fittings from Kenny D who extremely knowledgeable, answered all my questions, and delivered the product which exceeded my expectations.
After looking over the wiring schematics for the 3520 and checking the right side console I found that the 2-way connector (X4) containing circuits 263A (Orange) & 010A (Black). A quick check with a voltmeter with the key in the run position found 12v present which meant that the fuse F11 (20A) was present too! So I ordered the JD Diverter switch (LVA11181), the Diverter Wiring harness (MIA10393) ouch not cheap! and the diverter relay (AM123716).
A piece of 1/2" scrap aluminum was drilled to allow mounting to the Blower. Some JD Green was applied to the aluminum and then the Diverter Valve was attached. All the fittings and hoses were now plumbed up. (Remember - don't use any sealant on the ORB fittings, just lube the o rings with a little hydraulic fluid).
Now the easy part - the electrical wiring install. The Diverter harness plugged into the X4 connector. The relay was mounted to the side of the control lever bracket (a hole was there so I used it) The Diverter switch was installed in a blank closest to the 3rd SCV lever (the switch illuminated in Red). The connector Y7 (which would have gone to the real JD diverter valve was cut off and the two circuits were routed through a hole drilled through the metal to exit the cab just above the right rear tire. The wiring was protected with flex nylon braid and sealed with RTV Sealer. (Did I mention I hate drilling holes in my machine! But I had to get the two circuits out of the cab) Once exiting the cab the circuits were placed in 3/8" convolute and tie strapped to existing tubes and structures to keep it secured & out of the way. Once near the I-Match the two circuits had a mating Deutsch connector soldered onto then to mate to the Deutsch from Kenny D's D-Valve.
Put everything back together - doubled checked hoses and wiring, pulled the tractor out of the garage fired it up and verified both chute rotation and deflection worked. Success - awaiting the next snow fall!
Nice little project, thanks to all that contributed to my initial post and to Kenny D for all his help!
Tony
