I'm getting ready to hopefully save my "new acquisition" w/200 hrs on it.
U joints look pretty dry. I was able to get the 200cx /t-rods/and pedal zerks with no problem.
The rear driveshaft zerk is being difficult. I picked up the needle adapter from tsc..but still no real luck.When using just the grease fitting , I'm getting what I think is a good fit..but all I get is grease coming back out at me from the adapter. Does this mean the zerk is faulty or there is enough grease in there. I guess I'm used to seeing it come out the other side, the ball joint jacket bulge, etc. etc.
Additionally, I located the front zerk from underneath. What we need is a wacky 60 degree? narrow adapter. Anyone have any luck with such a thing?
What about the MFWD shaft? there doesn't appear to be a zerk on rear..but front has the boot. Is there an improved design?
The shafts have just a bit of wiggle (like under 1/4") but since this is my first REAL tractor..not sure what's normal? If the new design for the MFWD shaft has zerks is this easier to swap now obviously than before it breaks?
I realize there is somewhat of a thread..but I'm trying to combine both issues in 1 post that will hopefully be read since it's new. Thanks for the advice guys! I'm getting nervous if this was a wise purchase/if I should resell and get a 2520 .it's in great shape and the price was right. I wanted a 2520...but you know how things pop up.
U joints look pretty dry. I was able to get the 200cx /t-rods/and pedal zerks with no problem.
The rear driveshaft zerk is being difficult. I picked up the needle adapter from tsc..but still no real luck.When using just the grease fitting , I'm getting what I think is a good fit..but all I get is grease coming back out at me from the adapter. Does this mean the zerk is faulty or there is enough grease in there. I guess I'm used to seeing it come out the other side, the ball joint jacket bulge, etc. etc.
Additionally, I located the front zerk from underneath. What we need is a wacky 60 degree? narrow adapter. Anyone have any luck with such a thing?
What about the MFWD shaft? there doesn't appear to be a zerk on rear..but front has the boot. Is there an improved design?
The shafts have just a bit of wiggle (like under 1/4") but since this is my first REAL tractor..not sure what's normal? If the new design for the MFWD shaft has zerks is this easier to swap now obviously than before it breaks?
I realize there is somewhat of a thread..but I'm trying to combine both issues in 1 post that will hopefully be read since it's new. Thanks for the advice guys! I'm getting nervous if this was a wise purchase/if I should resell and get a 2520 .it's in great shape and the price was right. I wanted a 2520...but you know how things pop up.