...without using that gauge and reaching under the poison ivy juice coated deck...?
Had a dream a while ago about a guy that levelled up his deck "The Old Fashioned Way" measuring underneath, front to back/side to side and then marked the 4 corners of the deck and equivalent marks on the floor. He then cut 4 "try block wedges" from scrap wood and marked them where they contacted the deck at the marked points.
Next time he wanted to check for level, knowing he hadn't hit any water valves, cast iron lawn ornaments, dog chain, horseshoe court stakes, paver edging, etc., he drove in the shop and stopped on the marks and checked the actual deck/blade height "The Easy Way".
So... when I wake up tomorrow might I find this is still practical? Or should I take those old marks off the floor that's been levelling up the ol' GX335/48C every so often and join the blade gaugers again risking the "The Itch"? How far off can cutting level at the blades possibly get if the deck is sound and true...?
Had a dream a while ago about a guy that levelled up his deck "The Old Fashioned Way" measuring underneath, front to back/side to side and then marked the 4 corners of the deck and equivalent marks on the floor. He then cut 4 "try block wedges" from scrap wood and marked them where they contacted the deck at the marked points.
Next time he wanted to check for level, knowing he hadn't hit any water valves, cast iron lawn ornaments, dog chain, horseshoe court stakes, paver edging, etc., he drove in the shop and stopped on the marks and checked the actual deck/blade height "The Easy Way".
So... when I wake up tomorrow might I find this is still practical? Or should I take those old marks off the floor that's been levelling up the ol' GX335/48C every so often and join the blade gaugers again risking the "The Itch"? How far off can cutting level at the blades possibly get if the deck is sound and true...?
