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My dad's new 5075E and first impressions after 10 hours on it

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So rather than updating the other threads I started on this I thought it would be better to just start a new one with initial impressions and ongoing experiences with this tractor. If you read my other thread you know this will be the last new tractor my dad purchases in his lifetime as he has been retired from full time farming for 20 years now and is 75 years old. He took delivery of the tractor last month and left it mostly sitting until I could get home to go over it with him.

The dealer had installed the quick hitch and did not bother to adjust it (or at least tell my dad it should be adjusted before moving the machine) and it swung over (both ways at some point) and crunched both rear fenders. The dealer did not hesitate to admit it should not have been delivered like that and replaced both fenders. The tractor arrived back to the farm and I had a chance to put some hours on it, mostly rotary cutting and brushing some pasture and fence lines that my dad just did not have time to get to this summer. Here are my first impressions of this machine.

The tractor is really nice. The cab with AC sure made working on it for 9 hours an absolute joy. I grew up on the farm working with only open station tractors so this was a real luxury in 90+ degree weather. The tractor running at PTO speed with the MX7 on was really quiet. Again, I am comparing this to running our older tractors with open stations. This would have preserved a bit of my hearing as back in those days we never even thought twice about using ear protection when running farm implements or power tools. The first real tractor I ever worked a field with was a 50's Farmall M with a rusted off straight pipe about 3 feet from my head. Man that thing was loud but as a really young kid loved it especially when it shot flames out the stack!

The tractor barely broke a sweat running the MX7 even when running through some really thick and tall (3-4') grass. The major test was a very steep hillside that had not been cut for two or three years and was covered in sumac and lots of woody stuff. Some up to 2.5" in diameter. The MX7 is a beast and rolled through it like butter. Some of the larger stuff we had to put a chainsaw to but that cutter made light work of what looked like the thickest jungle undergrowth I have ever seen. Had not been back to that part of the farm for a couple years and was amazed at how tall and thick that stuff had gotten. The brother in law could no longer get to his deer stands so he was really happy I got it out of his way.

The PowerReverser transmission and 4WD was awesome for working the steep hillsides, especially when backing into the really thick stuff. It really helped as I worked to not get the tractor near any tall brush that would have scratched it all up pretty quickly. Manged to keep it scratch free while still making quick work of a tough project. I have read there are some users of the E series that have had some brake issues. I will report that the brakes functioned as they should with no need to double pump and very solid feel. Would have definitely been a problem on the hillsides we worked. We used the loader with bucket to trim trees along part of a fence line and then switched up to forks for moving the brush away.

Overall this initial experience was a 10 out of 10 for this tractor and I think we put it through its paces pretty good for the first 10 hours. It is definitely exceeding expectations so far and I will continue to report back with anything else good, bad or otherwise.

JD

My dad in the tractor.
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add some gauges to the 332

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tee'd off the oil pressure to keep the electric sending unit. temp i couldnt find a proper tee. temps never seem to get above 170f:greentractorride:
would also like to add a egt gauge. only so much space in there
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ROPS & Seatbelts do work

About a gas tank?

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A simple question; what is the proper way to clean a gas/diesel fuel tank?

Best glue to use on older JD Plastic hoods?

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What have you found to be the best glue for repairing the cracking or broken plastic on 90's lawn tractors? THANKS!

Removing Skunk Stains

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I had a run in with a skunk today, and he sprayed the side of my barn. It's a stain about 6" around. I can't even touch it with soap and water. I tried clorox wet wipes too. Any advice?

2030 Load Shaft Thurst Washers R66197 will NOT fit

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The seals were leaking on the 2030's load control shaft (where front of lower three point links mount). I replaced them a long time ago.

Recently I read post about there should be thrust washers; R66197. My tractor did not have any. The post said the load shaft should be limited to .100-.150" side to side movement with these thrust washers. I rough measured my side to side play at 1/4". Specs are .036" thick, so four would get me to approx. .106"

JDparts does not show them, but they are listed. My service manual did not give a side to side spec or show them either, but did mention them saying there were two.

Maybe former owner tossed them :dunno:


I am thinking maybe limiting side to side movement of the shaft would prolong the seals life, so I ordered four. I tried to install them today.
They were too SMALL ID to go on! :nunu: :unknown:What's up with that? :dunno:

When I got back from the farm I checked the specs for R66197 ( I only checked thickness before). ID is .850" Then I checked the specs for the load shaft, it's diameter is .877" :nunu:

Any other 2030s out there? If so, does yours have thrust washers on the load shaft?

Strange John Deere 70

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Gents,
Last week my wife and I drove an hour out of town to look to look over a 1954 Model 70. I'm very close to closing the deal with the owner, so I thought I'd some of this out here so I can hit the ground running once I take possession. There are some strange/less than great things about this old girl. Here are a few:
1. The deceased owner was in the middle of a break job when he died. So, the drums have been sitting off for years and they have not yet located the nut, washers and brake shoes and linings. Yay.
2. This tractor had some work done to it (sand blast and paint, new tires, alternator, exhaust) and was left to set outside for at least 10 years.
3. The tractor had not been run in at least 5 years, but I was able to verify that that engine is free. Obviously, they were having trouble with it as the spark plug wires, coil wire, and battery are missing too.
4. It is a factory gas tractor, but was retrofitted with LP components and a big ugly tank. That makes me a little nervous, so I think I'm going to try to get it to run on gas before I work on the LP stuff.

All of this said, it is very clean and straight and the rear tires are 80% plus and in great shape. I'm hopeful that I can get it home and get it running fairly quickly. I will post photos as soon as I can and keep you posted on our progress.

Any and all advice welcome.

Thanks!
Josh

3 pt out of control

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I recently purchased A 2011 John Deere 3038 E with 300 hours and when you raise the 3 point lever the three-point races but this does not disengage the engine as it should then when you move the lever down a quarter of an inch the three point balls all the way to the ground. I do not have the service manual at this time any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Yogi Berra

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Just heard Yogi Berra died age 90 may he RIP.

Looking to purchase a JD 455 Diesel. Is this a good deal?

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Hi everyone, I'm new here so I apologize if this is in the wrong location for this post. I'm looking at buying a 1996 John Deere 455 and it includes a 60" mower deck. It's in good original shape and runs great. The problem is that the guy selling it won't come down from $5000. He said he'd throw in the front pto shaft since I have future plans of buying a snow blower. That price seems a bit high to me but I also know they are kind of hard to find. Is this a good price? Should I buy this tractor or keep looking? Thank you for your time and any helpful info.

JD 3 log splitter question

JD 950 hydraulic Failure

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Hi fellas,

I am going to be a new owner of a 83 JD 950 tractor here this weekend. I am getting an incredible deal on it as it needs a little hydro work, tire tubes and so on. We are buying the tractor specifically for mowing large acreage and the fact its in our price range. The motor has about 1700 hours and runs solid. It has a 75 series loader on it and turf tires. Some day I’d like to get a set of ag tires on there, but for now the turfs will be fine for mowing till I can afford a set. I actually do not even know what they run for a set of rears, or where to get the best deal but that is down the road.

Here is the deal with the hydraulics. He said this past winter the bucket started to operate intermittently, and now does not at all. This past weekend he went down and tried to use the 3 point. It was sporatic as well. It would go up, stop, and he would have to wait a while to get it to go up again until it did not go up anymore but was not at max travel, more so half travel. Besides replacing the hydro pump, what else should I dig into? My first intuition tells me to drain the entire fluid system and replace all fluids and filters. If it has moisture, or needs to be purged of air I will have to address that as well. Is there a specific way to drain fluid and flush? I figured there would be a plug down on the diff?? There supposedly is a screen down in the diff I should also clean off and plan to do so. I am unsure if it has a remote filter or not, as I have not even picked it up. I’d like to add one in if at all possible.

Any help would be much appreciated. I understand hydraulic systems fairly well, but being a new tractor, I’m sure it has its own unique design to it, in which many of you are very familiar with.

Hydraulics options sheet for MY 2015 3R Tractors

Want to add 3rd function to H180 loader on 4052R

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OK, I'm sure this info exists around here somewhere, but I haven't been able to find the detail I require. Assume I know next to nothing about hydraulics and you'll be close to where I'm coming from. I know how to operate my tractor and the past two tractors I've owned, but I know almost nothing about the valve types, names, functions, etc. I am handy with a wrenchand computers (Computer Science and Electronic degrees), so I wouldn't be afraid to add the valves and lines myself, but I literally have no idea where to start.

I'd like to end up with a grapple on my loader at some point in the near future. I think this involves adding a button to my existing joystick. Obviously, this means tapping into the appropriate electrical supply and hydraulic lines. That's as far as my info goes. What parts or kits do I need?

Thanks for any help you can lend and for your patience with the uninformed. :thumbup1gif:

JD X720 Ultimate with 140 hours, 62" C Deck with Powerflo, 54" Blade, Loader, more

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I am selling my X720 Ultimate with 140 hours. 62C Deck, Powerflo, weights weight bracket, quick hitch, 54" blade with rubber wear strip, chains, six suitcase weights, broadcast spreader, and model 45 loader. Package price of $10,000. Will sell separately after tractor and deck sell. Will sell just tractor and deck for $7000. Will consider part trades on 2 up snowmobile or Polaris 6x6. I think mine is the lowest hour X720 on the market. Bill
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I love living here among the Lake Loons!!

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There is this gent I know. Not really a buddy, but a local friend.

He went off, and got all schooled up like the rest of us, and came back home to realize all the crap he stuffed between his ears, doesn't translate into much, unless it could be applied to create value of some sort. He wore out the shoe leather finding work suitable, but nothing paid well enough to cover the commute, or justify moving away from the Farm, so he went to work installing Irrigation systems, and landscaping the seasonal resorters mini-mansions.

Along the way, he got hitched to a Wine snob foodie, and lost his mind. He and his equally loonie bride, went nuts, and put in a Vinyard, found financing, and then really went off the hook, and built a Winery/Brewery/distillery, with a twist.
Casual, informal, local flavor and color snacks, wine tasting bar, special events like weddings and retreats, Hog roasts, and eccentric celebrations.

We have at least 12 Brewerys within 20 miles, and I can think of 6 Winerys, but there are more.
His, is, well..."Different". Muck Boots and shorts, or 3pc suit are all the same. No pretense.

He stopped by today, and shared a Hard cider over the tailgate, and dropped off some of the good stuff for a review.

I figured to share.
I have the Proscuitto sauce, reducing in the Vidal Blanc "Pandoras Bottle".

I'm not a sweet white fan, but it's interesting, and well done. Not as crisp as I like, but not too funky either.

Any other Foodie and local wine fans here?



Burning firewood this season?

Any regrets moving from 1 series to the 2032r

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I currently have a 2012 1026r with Backhoe, Front snow blade, 54" MMM, and FEL. I am looking to trading it in for a 2032r with a BH, 61" FEL. I am keeping the snow blade and everything that goes with it and purchasing the artillian back plate, hose extensions and adapter to put the blade on the front of the FEL arms. Should have done that a long time ago. The dealer is willing to throw in a used Z445 for my mowing purposes. Which is on another thread on the Zturns folder. I love my 1026r, I am constantly finding that I am running out of lift power with just small things I do. I know the BH is a bear to get on and off with a mower, I have been lurking in this area a while and have learned that. So has anyone regretted the move from the 1 series to the 2032r? Or anyone having the 2032r have any bad thoughts of why they should not have purchased it?

Dealer is giving me almost $21K for trade in for mine. I paid $26 for it when I bought it in 2012. So for $15K I can have the 2032r W/mentioned items and a Z445 mower that is great shape. Does not seem like a bad deal to me.

How to make Hard Cider

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We have an orchard up the street from us that presses some pretty tasty cider. They do pasteurize it (they "flash pasteurize" by passing the cider through a "hot spot" momentarily) but will set aside batches of unpasteurized cider if someone asks for it.

I'd like to make some hard cider but haven't done it before. When I was about 20, my buddy and I tried to make some watermelon wine and that was a disaster! He and I did make beer many years ago, but I've long forgotten all of the particulars. I figure there's no better place to turn than the fine folks here at GTT (even if some of us are boxed wine drinkers! :laugh:) to get some instruction on turning out some great hard cider.

I wouldn't mind making a few smaller batches of stuff if it's not a lot of trouble to do. Can I make the hard cider right in the plastic jugs that the cider comes in? Or should I do this in 5 gallon batches?

I am also looking for specifics on what kind of yeast to use. Someone in another thread mentioned champagne yeast makes a dryer cider. I wouldn't mind some of that, but would also like some traditional hard cider as well.

What about bottling? Do I need to start saving wine bottles (instead of drinking out of the box!) or can I use canning jars?

Sorry for the dumb questions, but like I said, it's been years since I've done any of this. So, let's let the learnin' commence!! :bigthumb:

THANKS!!
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